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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned high-end venues. However, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary honour.